A refrigerator that leaks water and experiences a drop in cooling performance can often be traced back to a few common issues. Below are some troubleshooting steps, possible causes, and tips for fixing or preventing these problems. If you are not comfortable performing any of the repairs yourself—or if the fridge is still under warranty—consider contacting a qualified technician.

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1. Clogged or Frozen Defrost Drain

Symptom

• Water dripping inside the fridge or pooling on the floor beneath it.
• Small puddle usually appears near the back of the fridge interior or inside the freezer compartment.

Why It Happens

• Most modern refrigerators periodically defrost themselves. The meltwater drains through a small hole or channel into a drain pan.
• Over time, debris (food particles, bits of packaging) can plug this drain. Alternatively, the drain can freeze if the refrigerator temperature is set too low or if the defrost cycle malfunctions.
• When water cannot properly exit, it can back up and leak.

What to Do

1. Locate the Defrost Drain: Typically found at the back of the freezer or refrigerator compartment.
2. Clear the Blockage:
   • Carefully remove any ice buildup using warm water (a turkey baster or a syringe is useful).
   • Use a pipe cleaner or a small flexible brush to dislodge debris.
3. Check for Re-freezing:
   • If it continues to freeze over, you may need a new defrost heater or a professional inspection.

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2. Damaged Drain Pan

Symptom

• Water dripping onto the floor from beneath the fridge, rather than inside it.
• This can also happen if the pan is simply overflowing.

Why It Happens

• In normal operation, a small pan at the bottom of the fridge collects water from the defrost cycle. The water typically evaporates.
• If the pan is cracked or positioned improperly, water can leak out before it evaporates.

What to Do

1. Pull Out the Pan: Most drain pans are accessible by removing the front kick plate or pulling out the fridge to access the rear panel.
2. Inspect for Damage: Look for cracks, holes, or warping.
3. Replace if Needed: Replacement pans are usually affordable and easy to install yourself.

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3. Door Seal (Gasket) Problems

Symptom

• Excessive condensation or moisture inside the fridge.
• Slowed cooling because the fridge is working overtime.
• Possibly higher electricity bills.

Why It Happens

• A worn or damaged gasket lets warm, humid air seep into the fridge, causing extra condensation (which can appear as water droplets or puddles). This also forces the refrigerator’s cooling system to run longer, potentially still failing to maintain the correct temperature.

What to Do

1. Check the Seal: Look for cracks, tears, or areas where the gasket is not flush with the door frame.
2. Clean the Gasket: Sometimes dirt or debris prevents a tight seal. Gently clean with warm soapy water, then rinse and dry.
3. Test the Seal: Close the door on a thin piece of paper. If it slips out easily, or you see gaps, the gasket isn’t sealing properly.
4. Replace if Necessary: Gaskets can be purchased by fridge model number; replacements are usually straightforward to install.

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4. Slow Cooling: Airflow Blockages or Dirty Condenser Coils

Symptom

• Inside temperature isn’t as cold as usual (milk spoiling quicker, ice cream soft).
• The fridge may run constantly or cycle more frequently.

Why It Happens

1. Blocked Air Vents: Over-stuffing the fridge/freezer can block airflow around vents, preventing proper cooling.
2. Dirty Condenser Coils: Coils located at the back or bottom of the fridge release heat from the refrigerant. If they’re dirty or dusty, the fridge can’t cool effectively.
3. Faulty Evaporator Fan: This fan circulates cold air throughout the fridge. If it’s failing or blocked by ice, cooling slows down.

What to Do

1. Check Vents: Avoid overpacking; keep vents clear so cold air can circulate.
2. Clean Condenser Coils: Vacuum or brush off dust every 6–12 months (unplug the fridge first).
3. Listen for the Fan: If you don’t hear it when the fridge is running, it may be jammed or broken—often a job for a technician.

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5. Leaky Water Supply Line (If Your Fridge Has an Ice/Water Dispenser)

Symptom

• Water on the floor behind or beneath the fridge (not inside).
• Ice maker or water dispenser malfunctions or doesn’t work as well.

Why It Happens

• Flexible plastic or copper lines supplying water to the fridge can develop pinholes, cracks, or loose connections over time.

What to Do

1. Inspect the Line: Pull the fridge forward, check for obvious dripping or small cracks.
2. Tighten Connections: Make sure the fittings on both ends are snug.
3. Replace Damaged Tubing: If there’s a puncture, switch out the line (generally inexpensive at hardware stores).

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Additional Tips & Maintenance

1. Proper Temperature Settings:
   • Fridge: ~37–40°F (3–4°C)
   • Freezer: 0°F (-18°C)
   • Extremely cold settings can lead to freezing of the defrost drain, among other issues.
2. Defrost Cycle Checks:
   • If you notice ice buildup in the freezer, confirm your automatic defrost cycle is functioning.
3. Keep It Level:
   • Make sure the fridge is on a level surface so the drainage system works properly.
4. Don’t Ignore Noises or Warm Spots:
   • Any unusual humming, rattling, or extra-warm areas on the exterior might signal a mechanical problem.

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When to Call a Professional

• If basic cleaning and maintenance do not stop the leaks or restore normal cooling, it could indicate a faulty defrost system (defrost heater, timer, or control board) or a refrigerant leak.
• Compressors, sealed systems, or complex electrical parts often require service by a certified technician.

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Bottom Line

A leaking refrigerator that’s also losing cooling efficiency typically points to:

• A clogged or frozen defrost drain,
• Damaged seals, or
• Dirty coils / blocked airflow.

Performing some routine cleaning, clearing blockages, and ensuring the fridge’s parts (like gaskets and drain pan) are in good condition can often solve the problem. If these steps don’t resolve the issue, consider professional repair to check for more complex mechanical or refrigerant-related faults.