Before the pandemic, beauty closets were staples of women’s publications. Designated rooms or shelves at publications’ offices, they were filled with new launches typically organized by category to help beauty editors keep track of the deluge of products they received. Editors took products they had their eyes on home to test out, while duplicates were often placed on a freebie table, and other employees snapped them up quickly. If they didn’t get their hands on freebies throughout the year, regular sales of the stuff in the closets to clear space for fresh merchandise was a chance to get a hold of last season’s lotions, lipsticks and lash curlers. The money collected often went to charity. Once work-from-home policies were implemented, beauty editors no longer had access to spacious beauty closets and fielded the flood of products from their tinier living arrangements. Kirbie Johnson adjusted pretty easily. The co-host of the podcast Gloss Angeles who left her position as host, producer and senior reporter at PopSugar in 2019 was already working from home when lockdowns began and set up giant Ikea shelving in her home office purposely for storing beauty products. “I developed a system,” she says. “I log every product I get in a spreadsheet and include things like launch dates, embargoes, etc. This helps me not only keep tabs on products I already tried and liked or didn’t like, but helps me visually see trends, too.” Stephanie Saltzman, beauty director at Fashionista, has a different approach. She established firm boundaries to stem the tide of packages. “I have a note in my email signature stating that we are working remotely, and I’ve also been very direct about asking publicists and brands to refrain from sending any unsolicited packages, so I’ve been able to streamline a bit,” she says. “But I still receive lots of mailers. I’m pretty sure my doormen think I have an online shopping addiction.” Shopping addiction suspicion or no, most beauty editors don’t believe the beauty closet, in whatever form it manifests, will vanish. “You never know when a product from the closet may spark an idea for content or be utilized in other ways, like TV segments or digital video,” says Johnson. Hallie Gould, associate editorial director at Byrdie, says, “It’ll always be an editor’s job to try and cover new products, and until that changes, we need somewhere to put them.” Dana Oliver, beauty expert and content director at StyleSeat, however, hopes the days of the crowded beauty closet are coming to a close. “In the past, beauty closets were attached to some form of elite status, and the more grandiose, the better,” she says. “Sure, it’s great to have a space to organize everything, but I’ve worked with and alongside many editors in the industry who have been doing real work beyond flashy unboxing videos and without a fancy beauty closet. If we’re really going to be about that life, aka reducing our carbon footprint and treating Mother Nature with the utmost respect she deserves, then we need to rethink the amount of stuff we accumulate that requires a beauty closet.” As some beauty editors start to trickle back into their publications’ offices, we were curious about how their relationships to the things of the beauty industry have changed. Do they think brands and public relations representatives should behave differently going forward? What types of products are they open to getting and what types aren’t they open to getting? How do they feel about extravagant unboxing stunts? Read below to learn about eight beauty editors’ views on beauty mailers in the pandemic world. 
Kathleen Suico, freelance editor and consultant
Has your relationship to receiving new products shifted since the pandemic?
Yes, I try to minimize the number of products I receive. There’s just no way I can possibly test everything. Luckily, I found a local women’s organization I donate to regularly.
How do you determine what products to have sent and which to pass on?
I’m a big makeup girl, so I usually won’t say no to any new mascara, base product or fun palette launch. If I’m already familiar with a brand, I’m more inclined to trying something. I try to minimize skincare and hair mailers because I know what works for me. I have sensitive skin, so I’m not big on experimenting with new products.
You have to be realistic when it comes to what you keep at home. How often do you really do a full face of makeup, style your hair, etc? I am a glam girl, but these days I probably wear foundation once a week. There’s just no need to have a stockpile of makeup. I’d rather that product go to a place where I know it’s going to be used rather than expiring in a drawer.
A lot of PR reps now ask if editors want new products sent rather than, in the past, sending them without any prior notice. Are you in favor of this approach?
Yes, I prefer the heads up. There have been times that I’ve been away and had no idea product was coming to my house. Luckily, packages barely get stolen from my home, but I know that’s a common problem with other editors.
What are some other changes you’d like to see PR reps and brands implement when it comes to sending products?
Less packaging and not sending a whole shade range. When it comes to complexion products, I love it when brands ask me my preferred shade(s). Sure, these extravagant boxes are fun, but they usually end up in the trash. Most times, I only want the product and not a branded water bottle along with it.
Kirbie Johnson, writer, producer and co-host of Gloss Angeles
Has your relationship to receiving new products shifted since the pandemic?
I’m really committed to trying innovative products. I think makeup has kind of taken a backseat for me—the product has to really speak to me to call it in. My job heavily relies on trying new products and sharing my experience, so I don’t think it’s changed much, but I am being more mindful about what I receive and how it’s packaged.
I had been receiving a steady amount of products since I began working from home in 2019, and it didn’t let up during the pandemic. I think publicists did their best to reach out to editors to ask if they were accepting deliveries since everyone was working from home, or at least gave them the option to “opt-in” to receiving by having them fill out Google Forms to decide what to include and what not to. In the past, the benefit of receiving products without asking was that the brands could ensure the editor at least received the product. Now, there’s that extra layer of red tape because, for instance, if you already have three body products to test out, you only have so much skin (and time!) to review them. So, if a brand or agency wants to send a new body product that’s launching, the editor may opt to not receive the product.
I loved not having to ask for products in the past, but now I’m trying to be more conscious about what I receive, especially since it’s just me and I don’t want to over-consume. I’ll do my part by responding to emails that ask if I’m open to receiving products or fill out any necessary forms. I’ve also been asking brands to cut back on “extras.” I don’t need another water bottle, blanket or branded piece of clothing. I think a lot of editors are over surprise mailers that are large, take up a lot of space, aren’t easy to recycle and include a lot of unnecessary items—unless those items are food, haha.
How do you determine what products to have sent and which to pass on?
If there’s a product I am really curious about—it utilizes a unique ingredient, delivery system, or makes interesting, science-backed claims—I’ll make sure to reach out and call it in and ask that they send me the product only. The smaller the package, the better! If there’s a brand that’s not launching anything new, but reaches out about sending me an array of products to become familiar with the brand, I now go on the website and pick two to three products I’ll actually want to test versus allowing the brand to send eight to 10 products, a majority of which would get donated.
A piece of advice I hope brands take to heart is to stop sending the entire line of products to one editor or influencer. It doesn’t make sense and most of that product will not get used by said editor. It’s more important to develop a relationship and ask them what they’d prefer to receive.
What are some other changes you’d like to see PR reps and brands implement when it comes to sending products?
Minimize packaging! Breaking down boxes is the bane of my existence. Perhaps some are really into these ornate, luxurious, packaging moments, but, frankly, it’s a huge waste, and just because something is recyclable doesn’t mean it will get recycled. You might get one to three Instagram story slides out of it and that’s it. I think there’s a time and a place for beautiful PR moments—La Mer did a great job this year around the Met Gala with that trunk and concierge they messengered to influencers—but, in my opinion, you can make a send feel special without a giant box and ornate packaging moment.
I know everyone is desperate to get responses from editors about sends, but please bear with us. We are fielding hundreds of emails a day on top of our other responsibilities, and most of the time it isn’t a priority to respond that we received a product. If we just had a package delivered, we most likely have not had time to try it! Emails asking what we’re working on are rarely going to warrant a response—we would rather you pitch us with valuable information about products and launches so we can reference them in the future!
Photographed by Sarah-Elizabeth Photography. Dana Oliver, beauty expert and content director at StyleSeat
Has your relationship to receiving new products shifted since the pandemic?
Yes, I’ve become even less concerned with receiving the latest and greatest. The pandemic has only heightened my desire to cut down on the clutter. I simply can’t create when there’s an avalanche of “junk” taking over my workspace.
The amount of products that I received once working 100% from home was absolutely ridiculous. Just because I was “at home” that didn’t mean I had more time or space to go through huge boxes filled with bubble wrap or packing peanuts just to get to a teeny tiny bottle or tube. I followed suit like some of my colleagues and communicated that this had to end, and we’d have to partner on not adding to the waste. Now, I’m glad to see that many agencies and brands are asking prior to sending out products or even allowing editors to select which products they’d be interested in receiving. I hope this continues and doesn’t subside once editors gradually return to the office. Asking also increases the chances that the products would actually get featured, and who doesn’t want that?
How do you determine what products to have sent and which to pass on?
What my audience is interested in is still a huge determining factor when it comes to the products I’m interested in receiving. Also, as a beauty director who is very vocal about being mindful of what I put in and on my body, I have no problem passing on products that don’t fit the criteria of doing me good.
What are some other changes you’d like to see PR reps and brands implement when it comes to sending products?
In addition to asking before sending products, I’d also like for PR reps and brands to do their basic research on the editor and outlet they are trying to connect with. Pitch products that have some sort of meaningful connection. I’ve also noticed that some brands are implementing unique ID opt-in codes. I think this is fantastic, and it also allows for people to update their contact/mailing info.
Stephanie Saltzman, beauty director at Fashionista
Has your relationship to receiving samples/new products shifted since the pandemic?
Before the pandemic, brands and agencies would constantly send unsolicited mailers, which would not only take up quite a bit of my workday, but also generate a lot of waste from the excessive packaging and products that either isn’t applicable to my work or items I can use. With brands having to check-in and confirm mailing addresses before sending anything, it created a huge shift toward enabling editors to opt-in or out of each mailer. This process still takes a bit of time out of my day fielding emails about whether or not I’d like to receive each mailer, but to me, it’s a major improvement over the way things used to be. It’s allowed me to be more thoughtful and intentional with my approach to receiving samples, minimize waste and keep better track of what items I have coming in.
Since I’m also having to store the products I’m receiving in my (small) apartment which has also become my workplace, I have to be careful not to let my stash become too unwieldy. My surroundings really impact my mental health and my ability to focus, so I have plenty of motivation to keep things pared down, organized and (relatively) minimal.
How do you determine what products to have sent and which to pass on?
I try to be realistic about what I’ll actually use for a story and/or as part of my personal routine, and I often clarify with publicists what, exactly, will come in a mailer before agreeing to receive it. If it’s some sort of huge package or something I probably won’t realistically be able to cover, I’m not shy about kindly passing on it, but I always assure the publicists that I’ll take a look at any additional information they’d like to send over via email. I’m always happy to receive information and having it digitally in my email records allows me to come back to it if a coverage opportunity does arise—at which point I can reach back out to request a sample if it becomes necessary.
A lot of PR reps now ask if editors want new products sent rather than, in the past, sending them without any prior notice, are you in favor of this approach?
Yes, very much so! It always felt like such a huge waste—of my time, of publicists’ time, of messengers’ time, of the brand’s money and resources, of packing materials—to receive so many unsolicited mailers. While receiving and testing products is crucial to performing my job (and I genuinely enjoy and appreciate receiving product samples), it would often become overwhelming and frustrating to see so much going to waste as a result. This new process of asking before sending anything just makes so much more sense.
What are some other changes you’d like to see PR reps and brands implement when it comes to sending products?
A more careful and thoughtful approach to any gifting that might go along with mailers would be great. I’ve seen brands start doing charitable donations, gift cards for practical things like Seamless, Uber, meal subscription services or local/independent businesses, and I think all of that is really great. It shows that the brands are being considerate about using their resources in ways that will really benefit editors and/or worthy causes or businesses, and it was a big mood booster for me throughout the pandemic when I certainly needed it. I appreciated thoughtful gifts like that so much. I would love to see more brands doing this and continuing to rethink their approach to gifting.
As far as sending products, there’s always huge room for improvement with minimizing waste and making the whole process more sustainable. Whether it’s shifting away from single-use packing materials or consolidating mailings into fewer shipments, these changes can really influence the environmental impact of our industry, which is so crucially important. I also appreciate that it keeps mess and clutter in my own home to a minimum—if I never received another package full of staticky, shredded cellophane or those little crinkly paper confetti strips that get everywhere ever again, it would be too soon.
Kathleen Hou, beauty director at The Cut
Were you receiving a lot of products once you started working from home? If so, what was that like in the beginning, and has it changed over time?
I am lucky that my parents live close to NYC. I’ve been sending almost all my beauty deliveries there, and have never appreciated the ease of driveway recycling more. It’s amazingly easy to break down boxes when you don’t live in a tiny apartment. Luckily, my mom is also a huge beauty fanatic so she has become my de-facto beauty assistant. She is in the process of turning a room in our house into a beauty closet—for herself. She gets paid in moisturizer and other beauty swag. It’s also been nice to share my beauty deliveries with someone—my mom is very much an unjaded beauty enthusiast, so she delights in everything, even the calligraphy of the notes. It’s a nice reminder to remain unskeptical and appreciative.
Has your relationship to receiving new products shifted since the pandemic?
At the beginning of the pandemic, I was first receiving products at my apartment. I quickly became overwhelmed and was probably a little less likely to encourage the sending of new products because I just didn’t have any room. But now that my parent’s house has become a beauty closet, I’m back to normal.
A lot of PR reps now ask if editors want new products sent rather than, in the past, sending them without any prior notice, are you in favor of this approach?
Yes, unless I give them the go-ahead. As this is my personal address, I also don’t want it to be shared and used in a non-professional manner. I also like a heads up in case anything perishable will be arriving, so it doesn’t wind up sitting outside all day long.
What are some other changes you’d like to see PR reps and brands implement when it comes to sending products?
I’d love for packages to be less difficult to open. Sometimes, it is quite difficult to wrench a bottle out of a built-in foam receptacle. Making things easy to recycle is also great.
Katie Becker, beauty editor and consultant
Were you receiving a lot of products once you started working from home? If so, what was that like in the beginning, and has it changed over time?
I think most editors could see the writing on the wall with the amount of packages that were going to fill up their homes, so I was extremely careful with my address from the beginning. I think it could have been a lot worse if I wasn’t really clear to not send anything without approval and that eventually became most agencies’ standard practice, too.
I would say that by far the biggest difference in packages pre-COVID and after is the creative mailer. It’s very rare we get what I call “dioramas” meant to be posted to IG. I’m so grateful for that. A lot of them are very fun and generous, but the vast majority were heartbreaking wastes of material. I’m glad to see those retire and I hope it stays that way. In terms of volume, it’s very manageable these days and I credit that to most agencies being respectful with my address and asking before sending (even though I know it’s extremely time-consuming for them).
Has your relationship to receiving new products shifted since the pandemic?
I’m much less anxious about it. The sheer volume of this industry is head-spinning. It’s essentially doubled while magazine staffs have been cut in half. Put that flood of mailers together with our email inboxes, and it’s just way too much to be filtering through every day. It’s not possible. At least now I can focus on the inbox and pre-select what deliveries to receive. The only issue left is time: I used to have other teammates who could help with unpacking. Now, that time comes out of my own schedule.
How do you determine what products to have sent and which to pass on?
There are plenty of effective products these days, so it often comes down to some of the bonus benefits for a products, like packaging and texture. To me, there’s little point in making the world’s most effective retinol if it’s a pain to use (sticky or smelly) or really ugly. Once I’ve determined that the product seems to be effective (e.g. does their skincare POV make sense?) what I’m looking for is: Does this seem like a product that someone will enjoy using and return to with excitement.
At some publications price point matters as well, but I’ve mostly worked for luxury publications. I also think your customers deserve good design, too—to me packaging and marketing is an indicator of quality and investment. Finally, does this product have a modern and mature POV? Is this a product that is being taken seriously by the people making it? There are a LOT of people in beauty now and WAY too many brands. Your product should scream its sense of respect for the customer.
What are some changes you’d like to see PR reps and brands implement when it comes to sending products?
I think most brands have caught on, but the creative mailers are officially a thing of the past. Not only because of the waste but because we literally cannot lug them up our walkups nor fit them down our garbage shoots or in our garbage rooms.
Hallie Gould, associate editorial director at Byrdie
Were you receiving a lot of products once you started working from home? If so, what was that like in the beginning, and has it changed over time?
The first couple weeks of quarantine allowed for a lull, as everyone was beginning to get their bearings. Publicists did make an effort to be thoughtful about mailings and pitches during that time, as we were all reeling. Once those first few weeks passed, I began getting the usual number of products sent to my home. It’s definitely overwhelming to deal with the aftermath of a mailing, like housing the (many) products in our small NYC apartments and breaking down all the boxes and packaging to be recycled or thrown away.
I know the number of products getting sent to our homes has become a hot-button issue, but I can’t fault a publicist for doing their job—getting those products in our hands is their job. I think the topic of conversation became productive when it turned into “how can we help each other during this time?” instead of playing the blame game.
Has your relationship to receiving new products shifted since the pandemic?
I’m definitely pickier. I used to welcome all products and samples—you never know when you’ll find the next big thing. Now that I’m home and it crosses over into my living space, I pass on the mailing when I know I’m not interested in a product. Before, we could offer it to other editors or gift the products to other people in the office.
We haven’t returned to the office yet, but I assume I’ll likely be more open to receiving products. We have ample space to house them in the office, as well as a lot of people excited to try them.
How do you determine what products to have sent and which to pass on?
I take a look at the press release and think about whether it has coverage potential. You can’t ever really know, of course, but I do my best to size up a product, formula, or launch based on current trends in the space or established editorial themes for the month. Does it have an ingredient that I’ve seen everywhere? Is it a buzzy, long-awaited launch? Do I genuinely need a new product for my own arsenal in this category? Is the brand story cool? That, and I’ll admit my relationship with the publicist matters too. If they’re telling me it’s good and we’ve worked together a lot, I’ll try it. I try to be as amenable as possible because I know this situation is hard for everyone.
What are some other changes you’d like to see PR reps and brands implement when it comes to sending products?
The best approach is to give up on the “wow factor” and send the product in the most efficient, sustainable way. We can tell when something is sent as “posting bait”—i.e. an outrageous delivery meant to go up on social media to promote the brand. It feels a bit out of touch during this time.
I know it can be tough on publicists because sometimes a brand wants what it wants, and their publicists have to follow through. That’s why I don’t like feeling pitted against publicists—we need them to do our jobs well just as much as they need us. It’s a partnership. The best way to move forward, in my opinion, is to continue to view the relationship like that; accept feedback and give honest feedback. I’ll take a no-frills shopping bag with a product inside over a huge mailing, any day.
Mi-Anne Chan, director of creative development at Teen Vogue
Were you receiving a lot of products once you started working from home? If so, what was that like in the beginning, and has it changed over time?
When I started working from home, the volume of products I got in the mail took a big dip because I don’t have access to a closet or an office to take on extra products. I became very careful about the products I accepted and, since I was working from home, how my address was distributed. Now I only accept what I will use and new launches that are particularly interesting to me.
Has your relationship to receiving samples/new products shifted since the pandemic?
Yes, it has because frankly I just realized that I don’t need every new launch to engage with and play with makeup and beauty. I started to view my collection in terms of flexibility and how each product can be used, sort of like a makeup artist. I have a handful of colorful eyeshadows and palettes that I use, some go-to base products, and some multipurpose lipsticks. That said, I definitely have too much makeup lol.
How do you determine what products to have sent and which to pass on?
I think about flexibility and if a product can be used for multiple things when it comes to products I accept. I also always look at ingredients lists when it comes to skin and hair care, and have developed a pretty good sense for whether or not a product will work for me.
What are some changes you’d like to see PR reps and brands implement when it comes to sending products?
All-paper packaging would be great for easy recyclability. No more confetti or little pieces of paper or packing peanuts as they’re so difficult to clean up. If you’re going to send a gift with the mailer (which is so kind!) it’s nice to get a heads up about what it is and be able to opt-in as well.
Source link : https://www.beautyindependent.com/what-beauty-editors-want-brands-to-send-absolutely-dont-want-them-send
